Resources
Carpet Care
Common Carpet Problems and Remedies
The various methods contained in this web site for cleaning carpeting have been based on many years of experience. A small test patch in an inconspicuous area must always be done prior to any of these methods to determine colorfastness. It should be noted that frequent vacuuming will prolong the life of carpeting.
Problem |
Cause |
Remedy |
Rapid Resoiling | Excess residue due to use of wrong cleaner or too high concentration of cleaner | Extract with plain water until residue is removed; then follow with application of Carpet Guard. |
Static Electricity | Low temperature Low humidity conditions | Apply Shock Block according to label directions. |
Brown Tips | High pH carpet cleaners used | Use Brown Out according to label directions. |
Shrinkage | Due to overwetting carpet Remove as much moisture as possible after shampooing with an extractor vacuum. | Avoid excess wetting of carpet. |
Furniture Stains | Placing furniture over damp carpeting | Placing pads beneath furniture legs. |
Excess Foaming in recovery compartment causing float valve to close prematurely. | Shampoo residue remaining from previous shampooing. | Add 1-2 ounces of Defoam-It to recovery compartment. |
Caring for Fifth Generation Stain Resistant Carpets
To prevent voiding manufacturer’s warranty, proper chemicals and methods must be used. Methods: Extraction is the recommended method. Some types of residential carpet fibers may be distorted by rotary method. Chemicals: Product pH must be below 10. No cationics such as quat compounds, biocides, bacteriocides, fabric softeners, fungicides should be used. Acceptable products are non-ionic or properly formulated anionics. Bonnet or Spin Pad This method is a quick way to clean carpet surfaces between rotary shampooing or extraction. It affords a quick way to keep carpet looking clean and also dries fast so as not to keep area closed to traffic for long periods of time.
Material and Equipment Needed |
Procedure |
Rotary Machine (175 RPM) equipped with drive block carpet, bonnets or pads | Vacuum and remove stains (if any). Pre-spray entire carpet 10-15 minutes before using machine with Bon-Brite. (NOTE: Keep area wet). |
Sprayer | Run machine with bonnet or spin pad in a side to side circular motion overlapping as you go. Rotate, change or rinse pad as it becomes soiled. Continue until entire Carpet surface has been cleaned. |
2 buckets with wringer (1 for solution, 1 for pad rinsing) | To speed drying, run machine over cleaned carpet with a dry bonnet. Fans are recommended to speed drying. |
Bon-Brite low residue, fast drying Bonnet Cleaner | If carpet is the type that needs pile lifting, use a carpet rake to lift pile to speed drying. |
Pads for placing under furniture legs to prevent rust stains | Place pads under furniture legs to prevent rust stains. |
Carpet Rake |
Extraction Cleaning
A very thorough way of deep cleaning carpeting by forcing extraction solution deep into carpet while a vacuum sucks up soil and most of the extraction solution.
Material and Equipment Needed |
Procedure |
Enzyme Pre-Spray | Pre-spray entire carpet with Enzyme Pre-Spray 10-15 minutes before extraction. Agitate to ensure complete contact. |
Float Away Extraction Cleaner | Prepare dilution of Float Away Extraction Cleaner in solution compartments of extraction machine. |
Defoam-It | Add 1-2 ounces of Defoam-It in recovery compartment. |
Extraction Machine | Extract carpet with Float Away Extraction Cleaner. |
Spots Off Universal Carpet Spotter | Extract carpet with clean water to remove detergent residue. |
Pads for placing under furniture legs | Place pads under furniture legs to prevent rust stains. |
Carpet rake |
Rotary (High Foam) Machine Shampooing
This method employs detergent action and high foam to lift and hold soil in suspension until it is vacuumed up. Sometimes used as a first step followed by extraction for heavily soiled carpets.
Material and Equipment Needed |
Procedure |
Enzyme Pre-Spray | Vacuum and remove stains (if any) from carpet. |
Rotary rug shampoo machine (175 RPM) with solution tank | Make proper dilution of Rug-Ed, Frothee or Resist (Soil Retardant Rug Shampoo) in solution tank. |
Rug-Ed High Foaming Rotary Shampoo or Frothee or Resist (Soil Retardant Rug Shampoo) | Pre-spray entire carpet with Enzyme Pre-Spray 10-15 minutes before shampooing. |
Pads for placing under furniture legs | Add 1-2 ounces of Defoam-It into pick-up tank of wet vacuum. |
Defoam-It | Dispense shampoo solution through shower feed brush and run machine in circular motion, overlapping as you go until entire carpet has been shampooed. Go over carpet in same manner without dispensing shampoo solution. |
Wet vacuum | Using a wet vacuum, pick up suspended soil and foam. |
Shower feed shampoo brush | (Optional) Extract with clean water to remove residue (NOTE: add 1-2 ounces of Defoam-It to recovery tank). |
Carpet rake |
|
Dilution & Measures
Dilution Ratios Concentrate to Water*
1:4 | 32 ounces per gallon | 1:30 | 4 ounces per gallon |
1:8 | 16 ounces per gallon | 1:40 | 3 ounces per gallon |
1:10 | 13 ounces per gallon | 1:64 | 2 ounces per gallon |
1:12 | 11 ounces per gallon | 1:128 | 1 ounce per gallon |
1:16 | 8 ounces per gallon | 1:200 | 2/3 of an ounce per gallon |
1:20 | 6 ounces per gallon | 1:256 | 1/2 of an ounce per gallon |
1:26 | 5 ounces per gallon |
To ensure proper performance of our products, it is important to follow the mixing instructions on the label and use the dilution chart above.
* Fractional measurements have been rounded to the nearest ounce.
Liquid Measures
1 cup = 8 ounces | pint = 16 ounces | 1 quart = 32 ounces |
1 liter = 1.0567 quarts | 1 gallon = 128 ounces | 1 gallon = 3.7853 liters |
Floor Care
Floor Maintenance Equipment Checklist
Assemble all materials and equipment required |
|
Wet Floor signs – put in place before starting | Short hose for adding water |
Dust Pan | Check water supply |
Dust Mop | Floor Maintenance Chemicals |
Broom | Doodle Bug with proper pads |
Floor Machine with proper pads (check to make sure electric power is on and also check floor machine to make sure it works properly) | Cotton mops for applying stripper solution |
Scraper (to remove gum, etc.) | Short hose for adding water |
Buckets with wringers (2) – 1 for stripper, 1 for floor finish | Conventional floor machine, buffing pads & spray bottles OR High-Speed burnisher and proper pads |
- Squirt Grand Slam evenly over baseboard surface, excess will run down onto edges and corners. Allow Grand Slam to remain on baseboard and edges for 10 minutes. Use a Doodle Bug with a scrub pad to remove build-up. Rinse area.
- Prepare a solution of Laser, Jackhammer or one of our other high-quality mop strip products in the stripper bucket. Dilute according to directions with warm water, not hot. Dip cotton mop into stripper solution and flood onto floor*. Allow solution to remain on floor for 10 to 15 minutes. Strip small areas at a time so as not to allow solution to dry. Wet down with more stripping solution if necessary. Pick up stripper/finish solution with a wet vac. In cases of heavy build-up, it may be necessary to use a floor machine with a stripping pad. For best results, we recommend rinsing floor twice thoroughly with clean water; the first rinse should include Prep-It Neutralizer.
- Place Wet Floor signs in proper locations.
- Apply Sealer to a clean, stripped and dry floor.
- Pour Skip Kote or First Step Sealer into the floor finish bucket, using only enough to cover mop head completely.
- Dip clean mop into sealer until uniformly wet.
- Wring out until sealer is dripping slightly from mop end.
- Apply first coat 6″ from baseboards to prevent build-up on edges. Allow to dry (approximately 30 to 45 minutes). Apply second coat approximately 1″ from baseboards. Two coats should suffice.
- Dust mop or sweep entire area to remove loose soil and abrasive grit daily.
- Use 2 to 4 ounces of De-Soil All-Purpose Cleaner, Fresh Clean Neutral All-Purpose Cleaner or Saflex All-Purpose Cleaner per gallon of water.
- Damp mop floor with this solution.
- After floor is dry: (as per maintenance schedule) (a.) Apply a mop-on restorer such as Mop & Buff or Renew Restorer as per label instructions and burnish with high-speed floor machine. OR (b.) Ap
How to Troubleshoot Common Floor Care Problems
Streaks in Floor Finish
Most Common Causes |
Solution |
Recoating too soon before prior coat has dried properly. | Strip, rinse and reapply. With most finishes, allow at least 30 minutes after finish to dry to the touch before recoating. Do not recoat if mop drags. |
Floor finish applied over factory finish on new tile. | Strip thoroughly, rinse and reapply finish. |
Dirty mop or equipment used. | Insure equipment is clean before applying finish. |
Floor finish frozen or stored in extreme heat. | Replace damaged polish before applying finish. |
Contaminated finish put back in container. | Do not save leftover finish in container for future use. Dispose of it. |
Most Common Causes |
Solution |
Finish applied with new synthetic mops before soaking/cleaning them. | Soak and clean new mops thoroughly. Use synthetic mops to apply finish. |
Incorrect concentration of cleaner. | Follow recommended dilution rations. |
Dirt coated into floor finish. | Strip, rinse and reapply finish. Deep scrub finish properly before recoating. |
Outside dirt, sand, grit ground into finish. Use approved mats and runners. Ineffective daily cleaning (particularly with UHS program prior to burnishing). | Damp mopping may not be sufficient. Use auto scrubber daily with proper cleaner and pads. |
Most Common Causes |
Solution |
Finish applied with new synthetic mops before soaking/cleaning them. | Soak and clean new mops thoroughly. Use synthetic mops to apply finish. |
Incorrect concentration of cleaner. | Follow recommended dilution rations. |
Dirt coated into floor finish. | Strip, rinse and reapply finish. Deep scrub finish properly before recoating. |
Outside dirt, sand, grit ground into finish. Use approved mats and runners. Ineffective daily cleaning (particularly with UHS program prior to burnishing). | Damp mopping may not be sufficient. Use auto scrubber daily with proper cleaner and pads. |
Most Common Causes |
Solution |
Wrong scrubbing or buffing pads, brushes used. | Use recommended pad or brush for each procedure. |
Excessive dirt and grit on floor. | Use approved mats and dust mop frequently. |
Floor finish film is too thick from excessive recoating. | Deep scrub with a black pad before recoating. (maintain 4 to 6 coats). |
Not scrubbing or buffing often enough. | Separate main from secondary traffic areas an schedule appropriate maintenance. |
Most Common Causes |
Solution |
Insufficient coats applied or recoat schedule off. | Scrub, rinse and apply additional coats (maintain 4 to 6 coats). |
Thin coats of finish. | Apply in medium to full coats: avoid wrung- out-mops. |
Wrong scrubbing or buffing pads/brushes used (usually too aggressive). | Consult pad manufacturer for proper pad for each application. |
Excessive amount of sand and grit on floor. | Use approved mats, dust mop frequently and remove grit outside doors. |
Floor not properly rinsed before recoat. | Strip, rinse well and apply new finish. |
Marble & Terrazzo
Polishing Marble and Terrazzo
How to use Powdered Marble Polish
Read Entire Preparation and Procedure Before Starting. The Use Of Rubber Gloves is Recommended
Step 1: All dirt, wax, floor finish or floor sealer must be removed entirely by properly stripping, rinsing and allowing the floor to dry completely before proceeding.
Step 2: Because marble and terrazzo vary dramatically, and with the advent of synthetic flooring of this type, a small inconspicuous area should be tested prior to proceeding on the entire floor, using the method outlined in Step 4.
Step 3: If results in Step 2 are satisfactory, proceed as follows.
Step 4: Place wet floor signs around work area. Mask adjoining carpeting and baseboards. Best results are obtained when small areas of approximately 2′ x 2′ or 3′ x 3′ are polished at a time. Sprinkle a small amount of powder onto 2′ x 2′ or 3′ x 3′ area. Wet surface with water and proceed to burnish with a Floor Machine (slow and heavy machine) fitted with a red pad, using a side to side motion, moving slowly. (The poultice should be a light paste). If surface begins to dry, sprinkle more water onto the area. Since the surface of marble and terrazzo vary, the time it takes to develop luster varies. The amount of shine developed can be determined by wiping a small section of floor with a dry cloth and observing the degree of luster. If satisfactory, squeegee the poultice onto the adjacent section of the floor, sprinkle additional powder onto the area, add more water and proceed in the same manner as above.
Step 5: Rinse area that has been polished with clean water, pick up rinsate with a wet-vac and proceed to polish the next section in the same manner as above, rinse second area, pick up and proceed until entire floor has been polished.
Step 6: Flood rinse entire floor and pick up with a wet-vac. Repeat rinsing 2 or 3 times to remove all traces of residue. When floor is dry, buff entire area with floor machine fitted with a white pad.
Materials needed (for both liquid and powdered methods) | |
A heavy, slow floor machine. | Drop cloths to prevent tracking residue onto adjacent areas. |
White and red polishing pads of proper size.* | Clean mops and buckets with wringers. |
Grade #00 and #1 steel wool pads of proper size (for liquid). | Wet-vac. |
Wet floor caution signs. | Squeegee. |
Powdered Marble Polish and (or) Liquid Crystallization. | Rubber gloves. |
Duct tape or masking tape, plastic or cardboard for masking carpeting and baseboards. |
* Manufacturer’s colors may vary. White – softest, generally used for dry buffing. Red – medium, generally used for spray buffing.
Handling Tips
- Do not allow powder poultice to dry. Keep wet by sprinkling or spraying water onto area.
- Always test an inconspicuous area, including border areas before proceeding.
- Begin buffing immediately after solution of polishing powder or liquid crystallization is applied to prevent etching.
- Wear gloves when using these or any chemical products.
How to use Liquid Crystallization
Read Entire Preparation and Procedure Before Starting. The Use Of Rubber Gloves is Recommended
Step 1: All dirt, wax, floor finish or floor sealer must be removed entirely by properly stripping, rinsing and allowing the floor to dry completely before proceeding. (The use of rubber gloves is recommended)
Step 2: Because marble and terrazzo vary dramatically, and with the advent of synthetic flooring of this type, a small inconspicuous area should be tested prior to proceeding on the entire floor, using procedure outlined in Step 4.
Step 3: If results in Step 2 are satisfactory, proceed as follows.
Step 4: Place wet floor signs around work area. Mask adjoining carpeting and baseboards. Shake liquid crystallization well before using. Pour liquid crystallization into a spray bottle with an adjustable trigger sprayer. Adjust sprayer to emit a light stream. Place a clean, steel wool pad (#1 will remove surface scratches and #00 will create a higher luster) under a slow and heavy floor machine. Squirt 3 or 4 squirts of liquid crystallization onto a 3′ x 3′ section of floor, buff immediately in a side to side (east to west) motion moving slowly until dry. After several sections are completed, buff entire area in toward-backward (north to south) direction. A luster will develop. Repeat procedure until desired luster is obtained, turn over or change steel wool pads as they become overloaded with liquid crystallization. Damp mop entire area to remove steel wool shavings and buff with white pad.
GHS
What is GHS?
GHS is a system that defines and classifies the hazards of chemical products and communicates health and safety information on labels and safety data sheets. Once implemented, the revised standard will improve the quality and consistency of hazard information in the workplace, making it safer for workers by providing easily understandable information on appropriate handling and safe use of chemicals around the world. On March 20, 2012, OSHA announced that the Hazard Communication Standard (HCS) had been revised to align with the Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals, commonly known as GHS. Published in the Federal Register on March 26, 2012, the adoption of GHS ushers in a new era of Hazard Communication for the United States. According to OSHA, changes to the HCS will affect over 43 million workers in over 5 million workplaces. The biggest changes center on: Training Safety Data Sheets Labels Hazard Classification There are 4 key compliance dates related to OSHA’s adoption of GHS: December 1, 2013 All employers must train their employees who use or sell chemicals on how to read the new GHS formatted labels and 16-section safety data sheets. June 1, 2015 Chemical manufacturers and distributors must complete hazard reclassification and produce GHS styled labels and safety data sheets. Distributors get an additional 6 months to complete shipments of old inventory. December 1, 2015 Distributors must comply fully with HCS requirements. (Grace period for shipments of old inventory ends.) June 1, 2016 Employers must be in full compliance with revised HCS, including complete training of employees on new hazards and/or revisions to workplace hazard communication program.Resource Materials
ACS has compiled a comprehensive set of tools to assist you in preparing for HazCom 2012. Simply click on the links below to access and download valuable training materials to fully explain all areas of compliance.- OSHA Quick Card-Label (English and Spanish)
- OSHA Quick Card-Pictograms (English and Spanish)
- OSHA Quick Card-Safety Data Sheet (English Only)
- OSHA Quick Card-Safety Data Sheet (Spanish Only)
- OSHA Brief-Safety Data Sheets (English Only)
- OSHA Fact Sheet-Hazcom 2012 Training Requirements (English Only)
- GHS 101: Definitions (English Only)
- Hazcom 2012 Powerpoint Presentation (English Only)